Monday, May 25, 2015

A Steady State Economy, Social Entrepreneurship, and Budget Traveling

Day 30 of 30, we have now been traveling for one month. What feels like five minutes of linear time and one year worth of knowledge and experience has culminated in one of the most beautiful experiences of my life. The trip broke down approximately into spending three days in Singapore when I arrived, one week in Bali as our first Indonesian destination, two weeks on Lombok as our second Indonesian destination, and three more days in Singapore as my departing gateway. Now departing, Southeast Asia has graced me with countless memories, new friends, a (almost certain) permanent Chaco tan line, and an engrained and revived sense for travel and adventure. Our last week spent in Lombok consisted of the continued effort to complete one of Amir’s amazing projects he has been working on during his extended stay in Southeast Asia known as Project Kopi (www.projectkopi.com).

We arrive in the Gangga region of Lombok located on the northern section of the island near the base of Rinjani, the tallest volcano in Lombok. We have been traveling via scooter for over three hours and are ready to rest our chaffed backsides. In Lombok the Gangga region is most well known for their coffee and cocoa, which most farmers grow amongst a plethora of other fruit trees and vegetation (there is no such thing as mono-cropping in this region). Most farmers here are sustenance farmers, and survive mostly on what they produce as well as trading with fellow villagers and selling in markets as far as Bali.

We have been driving around aimlessly for 30 minutes now not knowing where to look for coffee. As we stop to consider our next move a man drives up to us on his scooter and asks where we are headed in broken English. We explain our mission and goals of social entrepreneurship to him, and after a minute he says to follow him to his farm. Next we are speeding through the jungle on scooters weaving amongst the trees until we come into a clearing with multiple structures. In Indonesia the custom is to build small villages known as “Kampungs” in which many families live together and pool resources (labor skills, and natural resources). Our new friend, Ecok, has coffee his family grows and harvests themselves. They harvest two to three times a year and bring most of the coffee to markets in Bali. They still have some green beans left over, but they have not been de-husked yet, no problem we think. We purchase four kilograms of green beans, and pay double the average price per kilo. First lesson in social entrepreneurship and steady state economics, applying a triple bottom line accounting system assures the farmers fair trade prices for their goods and services. The profit margin for coffee is so high, and the product moves through so many hands that the farmer on average ends up with the least amount of income per kilogram of coffee sold.

There is four kilograms of shelled green bean pure Gangga Robusta coffee sitting in front of us, and no machines in sight to begin the de-husking process. There it is, a hallowed out tree stump and large wood shaft (a big mortar and pestle), so we begin the process of de-husking the coffee beans. Pound, pound, pound for over an hour we empty the crushed husks and beans onto a strainer on which we sort the beans and crushed remains out. We have collected four kilos of green beans. We decide to roast two kilos and keep two kilos green (a green bean preserves a lot longer than a roasted bean) and we realize again no mechanized roaster. There is a clay pot and a fire, we are doing it traditional. After another hour of roasting the beans over the fire to a dark rich roast we have completed the first steps in our process of creating a sustainable product that supports the communities of the Gangga region, while supporting the Western yearning for good coffee at an equitable price, but not without the essential support and help from Ecok and his family in the entire process.

While we complete this project we are staying with our friend Anton, a charismatic local of the Gangga region who owns a home stay and organic coffee art operation that sees people from all over the world. It is the most local home stay we have encountered, and it is perfect. It is the budget travelers dream accommodation, all food is local priced, and there are plenty of waterfalls and treks to explore in the area for very affordable prices. Built in a traditional Kampung, with traditional Sasak bamboo bungalows we are surrounded by Anton’s family and neighbors. Anton knows everyone, so he becomes an invaluable resource in completing our project. We head to the next stop, grinding the beans and packaging. We have learned that the coffee of this region is famous for fermenting raw vanilla within its packaged goods, so in keeping with tradition we source some raw local vanilla beans (and in keeping with the triple bottom line accounting, we pay double the average price) to ferment our soon to be packaged coffee.

The locals with the packaging equipment also grow and sell coffee. They are part of a cooperative in the area that helps the farmers better manage their crops and ROI. It is simple plastic sealed packaging of either 50 gram non-resealable packages of clear plastic, or 100 gram resealable packages of clear plastic, the market and resources for more sustainable packaging and labeling has not yet reached this area of the world. We have two kilos of roasted coffee to grind and package, so we opt for the 50 gram packages with which we can distribute to more people and educate them on the mission of Amir’s non-profit social business and its mission of creating a sustainable business in the coffee market, while supporting an orphanage in the Aceh region of Sumatra that had been devastated by the 2004 tsunami. Amir’s entire philosophy regarding this project is to create a sustainable business in a local market, providing the local economy with fair trade prices and wages, while simultaneously supporting an organization in the country that lacks essential funding from government and private sources. The idea is still in Beta round testing of market share and triple bottom line viability, but it is promising seeing that Indonesia grows some high quality coffee (if done correctly) and consumers in Western markets are turning towards products with missions such as Project Kopi’s. This type of social entrepreneurship supports the fundamentals of steady state economics by providing fair trade prices to local markets that produce organic products to sustainably supply markets with demand, and develop a business model that does not grow, but instead develops into a long-term sustainable market providing feedback loops that support systems in need of funding.

We finish packaging the last of the ground coffee fermenting with vanilla, and are headed off back to Kuta in the south of Lombok in the morning. It is bitter sweet leaving in the morning knowing what we have accomplished, but we will be back in due time. The back seat of the scooter is uninviting, but with a stop in Mataram to print some Project Kopi sticker labels for the coffee, and a stop in Sukarara the home of traditional weaving in Lombok and the best spot to find handmade affordable sarongs the four hour trip isn’t so bad. We arrive back in Kuta with enough time to say hello to our local bracelet and coconut source, Romi the nine year old equivalent of the best salesman you’ve never met! After stocking up on hand made bracelets, and throwing in a little extra which we made him promise would go towards his schooling, and watching him climb a very tall coconut tree from which he collected a few coconuts for us all to enjoy we said goodbye, which in Bahasa Indonesian is said as, “Sampai jumpa lagi”, which means “see you again”.

The next morning we flew out of Lombok International Airport to Kuala Lumpur and then onto Singapore, the extended travel via Air Asia saving us approx. $70 USD each rather than a direct flight to Singapore (credit Amir for his extensive experience in sourcing out the discounted tickets). Now in Singapore still reminiscing on the experiences of the last 30 days, I have decided that budget travel mixed with social entrepreneurship is THE most rewarding experience a person can have when adventuring to places wild and unknown. I have been rewarded with the most memorable adventure of my life by taking hold of my decisions, directing my energy into making positive impacts, leaving my comfort zones at home, and providing ample time in our travel schedule to let randomness and hospitality guide us to the most unique and special experiences.

I hope you have enjoyed this bit on social entrepreneurship and budget travel, it is something simple, something new, and something worth saving a bit of coin to let your travels last a lifetime.

Onward,

Hayden

Friday, May 15, 2015

Day One Lombok, Indonesia

Day One -- (Current exchange rate, $1USD = Rp 13,089.45)

After spending a week on Bali and touring literally the entire island by scooter (dumb and dumber style), we catch a taxi (bluebird taxis because they are the highest rated for using a meter) up to the harbor in Padangbai, Bali from Kuta, Bali. Now if you want to travel ultra budget it is possible to take local transportation via buses up to Denpasar then on to Padangbai, but what it takes in time and effort your money can be better spent by either bargaining for a private car or bargaining a taxi for a trip from Kuta to Padangbai, and you should be looking in the price range of Rp 250,000 ($19 USD). We arrive in Padangbai and purchase two tickets for the slow ferry (est. travel time 4-5 hours, so bring a good read) to Lembar, Lombok for Rp 100,000 ($8 USD). This price is on the higher side because we could not find a ticket counter promptly enough and decided to settle for a middleman that you pay who takes you to the harbor gate and gets you through security. A true price that I had read would be Rp 36,000 ($3 USD) per person for the slow ferry. The ferry trip was enjoyable, there are three or four levels on the ferry and each level is open air with a roof. the benches are hard and not very well built for long distance travel, but the scenery is beautiful and the breeze is satisfying. It is a boat ride so know if sea sickness will be an issue.

We arrive in Lembar, Lombok harbor and are greeted by multiple people looking to give you rides to your destinations. The slow ferry is usually the backpackers form of transportation, so whilst on the ferry it is best to attempt to organize a group if possible to reduce the price of a ride to the destination of your choosing. On Lombok the Gili islands located off the northwest coast of the island are a popular destination with travelers, which is where the other travelers from our ferry were headed. Us, we were headed for Kuta, Lombok; A much smaller and quieter version from Bali’s Kuta. It is located in the south of the island, and is surrounded by a handful of exceptional surf breaks and perfect coves. We arrive in Kuta and pay our Rp 200,000 ($15 USD) charge we bargained for the private car (down from Rp 450,000 [$34 USD]). We are dropped off at Tri Putri homestay in Kuta’s centre, they provide basic accommodation, consisting of a mattress with bedding, a toilet, cold shower, fan, wi-fi, and make-your-own pancakes breakfast. For Rp 80,000 ($6 USD) for the two of us it is budget travel at its best!

The next morning, our first day in Lombok, we are up early to check out the surf breaks. Make sure you do your research and ask questions with the breaks if you are not experienced, this will save you from renting equipment and sometimes a boat only to get out in the break and realize it is above your skill ability. We read that Selong Belanak offered some beginner to intermediate beach breaks, so we headed off to check it out. We arrive to a very mellow beach break, so we talk to the locals and convince them that for Rp 100,000 ($8 USD) one of them drive a scooter with us and show us the way around to another beach with a better reef break. This was versus Rp 150,000 ($12 USD) for a boat with limited time. After we rent the boards for Rp 100,000 ($8 USD) (Rp 50,000 [$4 USD] each for the day [this is a good price for the day]) we head out to the beach. We arrive to a choppy break, but a break no less. The next two hours are of us attempting to catch decent swells and luckily owning the break with not a single other soul.

We finish surfing and head back to our home stay where we get some food at the nearby restaurant Warung Grand (for very reasonable prices) Rp 15,000 ($1 USD) for Nasi Goreng (fried rice with vegetables, egg, and chicken), then we hit the road to check out the famous break known as Gerupuk, which requires a 10 minute boat ride to the break. We arrive in the tiny village to surfers every where and plenty of stoke, this is a good sign. We inquire with some local guys about boards and boats, as well as some places to stay. We figure Rp 50,000 ($4 USD) for a board for the day, Rp 150,000 ($12 USD) for a boat for two (less if split between four people), and about Rp 150,000 ($12 USD) a night for accommodations (the low supply and high demand set prices a bit higher than Kuta, and bargaining is really out of the question, price-fixing by the locals keeps the market price static). So we arrange everything and hit the road back to Kuta (drives only take about 30 minutes or so). We hit the Warung Grand again for dinner (best fresh banana juice in town), and hit the sack for an early morning surf sesh that sets our spirits high!

Lombok Daily Budget (one person):

Breakfast- usually included with accommodations, if not $1 USD
Scooter- $4 USD for all day
Surfboard- $4 USD for all day
Boat (if needed)- $6 USD for about three hours
Bottled water- $0.40 USD/1.5L bottle X 2
Lunch- $1 - $2 USD (depending on how hungry and thirsty you are)
Petrol- $0.70 USD/1L of petrol for the scooter (for excursions)
Coconuts- ~$0.80 USD/1 coconut (depending on vendor and bargaining skills)
Handmade Bracelets- ~$0.40 USD/1 bracelet (handmade by local kids, price depends on bargaining skills).
Dinner- $2 USD for a good sate ayum (grilled chicken and peanut sauce with rice)
Accommodation- Avg $8 USD for basic needs (mattress and bedding, wi-fi, fan, toilet, and cold shower)
Total- $29.30 USD for a very full day (on the more pricey side)
Note: this is not an exact number by any means, it is an approximation based on average activities and daily rates, everyone is different and this is just one budget traveler’s own perceived reality.

If you enjoyed this bit please keep reading the new posts coming soon. These bits are something simple, something new, and something worth saving a bit of coin to let your travels last a lifetime.

Onward,

Hayden

Saturday, May 9, 2015

Breaking in your travel legs

Hello world, as I write this I am sitting in a hostel in Kuta, Bali about two weeks into my month long adventure in Southeast Asia. I promised some blog posts on budget traveling and providing some beneficial information on what I learn while on the road. Due to lack of internet for extended periods of time this has resulted in publishing a longer than wanting post containing my last two weeks of travel condensed into (semi)readable paragraphs. Now, there is a major shoutout that must be done here, for it would have taken a lot longer to figure out what I have learned so far if not for the amazing man himself, Amir Foy. This kind hearted soul and brother has spent the better part of the last six months here in Southeast Asia and has just provided me a literal crash course in budget traveling for the Southeast Asia geographical area. What follows is my personal account and lessons in budget traveling from the island of Bali.

Southeast Asia
Getting to se asia -- I had been eyeing tickets on the internet for a while, and finally after about two weeks of consistent searching and doubting I finally made the decision to purchase my first flight to Asia in three months time. It is best to purchase your ticket three to four months in advance to provide for proper planning. Now something I did not know at the time, but has since come to my attention is the use of cookies by airline companies to marginally inflate the prices of flights that you consistently search. Over time multiple online searches of the same flights generate cookies, which then are used to marginally inflate the prices of the flights you are interested in, because the airlines see a demand for the flight and slowly wean the cheaper flights out of the picture. Now this is not a published fact, but research strongly suggests that this is a standard economic method utilized by airlines to generate further profit. An easy fix for this is to clear your cookie cache every time you finish researching travel plans that include flights. As a result of my ignorance the price of the flight I was interested in for over two weeks worth of research increased by more than $150 when it came time for me to finally decide and invest. Now remember, this is southeast Asia, one of the cheapest areas of the world to travel in, and an area of the world where bargaining exists for almost all goods and services. So $150 can stretch to almost a weeks worth of traveling depending on your specific travel demands.

D-Day -- Departure day, I am sitting in Denver International Airport about to catch my first of three flights before I reach my destination, Singapore. The duration of the trip is 30 days, an efficient amount of time in my opinion to break in your travel legs. I have packed a 30 liter backpack for the duration of my trip. If you pack smart all you need is a carry on with a personal item (day trekking pack stuffed with airplane necessities). Everyone is different, so obviously packing is unique to every individual traveler, but some good guidelines to follow are, to keep your pack under 10 kg. Most budget airlines (which are the cheapest and usually best airlines to book with for short duration flights to non-specific and specific destinations) employ a weight limit of 10 kg for carry ons before they begin charging extra fees. Your day trekking pack (personal item) can be used to carry heavier items that provide excess weight.
Singapore, Malaysia
I land in Singapore for a brief stay before heading to Bali. Singapore is a beautiful city with many modern attractions. Most attractions cost money, but it is still possible to experience Singapore on a budget. For accommodations there are hostels and home stays available. For transportation the public bus and metro system is cost effective and efficient. For food the local “hawker stalls”, as they are known, provide local cuisine at very affordable prices. For attractions Little India, Chinatown, Gardens by the Bay, and Geyland all provide for vibrant experiences at no entry cost. I finally depart for Bali on an AirAsia flight (with help from Amir’s budget airline knowledge). We land in Bali International Airport and the chaos ensues.

Bali -- The airport on this small island is located on a very small channel of land, which creates a bottleneck effect when driving in or out of this area. Kuta, Bali is probably one of the more visited areas of Bali for its beach-vibe party scene and is located just five to ten minutes from the airport. When exiting the airport do not take the first car or bus service you see. People will try to sell you anything. Exit the airport and walk to the outside roads that run parallel to the airport. Now find a taxi, Blue Bird taxis are quite reliable taxis in Bali, but always ask the driver before you get in if they are running the meter. If not find another taxi that will run the meter. I have figured a daily budget of ~$30 USD to be of a sufficient travel budget for the island of Bali. Every location in Southeast Asia will vary on a sufficient daily budget, but for Bali there is no reason other than non-budget traveling why you cannot travel and experience Bali on $30 USD or less per day.
Bali

It is usually easier to book accommodations in advance at a location in Bali online if you are unfamiliar with the area and would like to relax after a long day of travel, rather than walking around bargaining for a room of your necessities. For budget traveling in Bali a basic room with a bed, bucket shower, and toilet should run you no more than 100,000 rupiah. Now this is very basic living standards, and for a little upgrade you should pay no more than 250,000 rupiah.

Food is very cheap here and you do not need a super strong stomach to be able to eat cheap in Bali. As long as you look for locals eating there you will get a cheaper price. It is always nice too if you know a bit of the local dialect to begin conversations with, it is a good ice breaker and makes the locals more approachable to giving you local prices. A traditional dish that is hard to go wrong with is Nasi Goreng, which is just fried rice with some egg and vegetable. Solid staple meal that goes for approx. 10,000 rupiah. You can get a hot tea to wash it down for 3,000-5,000 rupiah and you have a safe, local, fulfilling meal for just over $1 USD cost.

Transportation is very personalized. Every traveler has there own level of comfort for transporting themselves places. For the super budget traveler, a scooter, the open road, and some fuel is the option. At a cost of around 50,000 rupiah per day (including fuel) Amir and I were able to see about 75% or more of the island in five days. That is an approx. cost of 250,000 rupiah or $20 USD in transportation for five days, or about $4 USD a day in transportation for two people. One topic of awareness is the use of road blocks by local police in search of people in violation of the very laissez-faire traffic laws in use on the island. A popular search is of tourist drivers in search of international drivers license’s. It is a very common practice to simply delay procedure and provide a monetary stimulus to the police for passage in an amount of 50,000-100,000 rupiah.

Attractions are many on this island paradise. From world class surfing at Medewi surf point, to snorkeling out on Deer Island off the North Shore, to climbing volcanoes and exploring Hindu temples, to searching out magnificent waterfalls and immaculate rice terraces. Amongst these attractions “donations” and fees are also plenty. Be cautious when breaking out the wallet to see a temple, or to get a “guide” to view a waterfall. These are small scams that all end up costing you big in the end. There are the few attractions that have organizations that manage them, and require an entry fee of usually approx. 15,000 rupiah. Surfing can be an easy money trap as well. The average cost should be no more than 50,000 to 75,000 rupiah for a full day of surfing (lessons not included). Don’t be afraid to bargain and start low.
Gunung Agung, Bali

The attractions that can scam you are the waterfall treks and volcano treks. Now if you are not familiar with trekking in general, the locals (“guides”) can offer an easy (but expensive) alternative to experiencing these attractions. If you should commission a guide you should pay no more than 20,000 rupiah to trek a waterfall, and no than 100,000 to 300,000 rupiah to trek a volcano (depending on which volcano you wish to trek).

When it comes to purchasing the local goods for memorabilia and to give your loved ones in an attempt to create peace for not taking them with you, it is very important to remember the power of bargaining. Most prices for goods sold in Bali and Southeast Asia are inflated, so with proper bargaining techniques in hand a proper price can be established with the right knowledge. Now this can seem ill-favored to some people that do not understand the economics behind it, and it also comes down to principle. People simply tend to believe that the price given is the market price, but this is a common misconception. The economy of the area supports a daily wage of approx. $4 USD per day according to wageindicator.org. Most tourist traps found on Bali provide goods that are sold in little stands. The average price for a bracelet that I saw at one temple was 35,000 rupiah. That is almost a full day wage for one person with one bracelet. This kind of economic environment does not support long-term growth and development in an area with rampant poverty and governmental corruption. It is also the principle surrounding the entire concept. That principle, though not everyone agrees, is that we are all participants here together, and the common universal law, do unto others as you would want to be done unto you.

Up to this moment in time the information above is the majority of information I have retained in the last two weeks in this crash course on budget traveling my brother Amir Foy has so generously passed on to me. There may have been pieces I have learned, but have forgotten to mention, and for that I am sorry. These last two weeks have been some of the most humbling and enlightening experiences of my life, and I am still just beginning to fully process all the information and data. This world is filled with magic and wonder, and it is easier than you think to access these far off lands, you must simply remember that traveling like a local is the most organic and cost effective experience you will ever find. We are now off to Lombok, an island adjacent to Bali, to continue our travels. We will be taking the public transportation from Kuta, Bali to the harbor, where we will catch the slow ferry to Lombok. Experiences to come, so stay in touch.

Please feel free to comment and share. Constructive criticism is always appreciated, personal attacks are never tolerated, and I would be happy to take topic requests for this area. Never stop exploring, and we will inform you soon from the island of Lombok!

Onward,

Hayden

Tuesday, April 28, 2015

So it begins.

This is my first post in a while. I have been dormant from this platform for some time due to an overly active lifestyle. But it is time to return, and with something a little different from my previous posts. These coming posts will center primarily around traveling internationally on a budget. They will be segmented here and there with material relating to the local culture, environmental interests, and geo-political atmospheres.

I would like to concentrate on providing more information in relation to traveling on a budget, because too many people make the excuse that it is too expensive to travel, and to uproot your life temporarily is too much of a financial risk. This is where we are all wrong. I have to include in this post, if it wasn't for my beautiful girlfriend Carrie to show me that a positive attitude makes any situation better; my good friend Amir to show me the start of the yellow brick road to traveling on a budget; and the author and travel blogger Matt Kepnes for providing essential information that has proven vital to my decision making process; I would still be too scared to have entered the rabbit hole that is traveling abroad on a budget.

So as I sit here in LAX awaiting my flight to my next exotic location, I have to recall one of my favorite quotes from the author J.R.R Tolkein, "not all those who wander are lost." Until next time. 

Namaste,
Hayden van Andel